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Bécal, Campeche's Panama hats


 

Among the numerous weavers in the town of Bécal, Campeche, Mexico, Don Holoch's family has been weaving hats made from the jippi (pronounced heepee) plant for decades in the quaint.  Don Holoch, as he is known in his hometown, is Mr. Eulogio Chi Tzel , probably the best hat weaver in Campeche, and perhaps Mexico.  His four strand hats are so soft, they feel like silk and his work is known by collectors in the United States and Europe.  The government of Campeche has invited Mr. Chi to demonstrate his weaving techniques during trade, culture and tourism missions outside Campeche, including one to Germany in 2003.  Don Holoch has been recognized with numerous awards for his work.

 

Mr. Chi began weaving with the jippi plant fibers at the age of 13, over 45 years ago. He learned this old craft from his older brothers who in turned had learned from their elders.  Some 40 years ago, Don Eulogio dug his own weaving cave in the back yard of his house.  The caves are necessary to create an environment that is humid enough so that the jippi fibres remain malleable.   During the rainy season, when it is quite humid at street level, Mr Chi and his family can work inside their home.

 

 

The process involved in making Bécal jippi hats is labour intensive and requires skill and patience, since the hats are made by hand In order to weave the finest of hats, what they call a " sombrero de 4 partidas" (4 strand hat), a highly skilled artisan may take 30 days working a full 8 hour shift per day. To the touch, the 4 strand hats feel like one is touching silk, so soft they are. Most hats weaved for sale are usually 2 strands, but one can order a 4 strand hat directly from the artisans.  As you may imagine the 4 strand hats are not inexpensive.

 

In addition to Don Holoch, other members of the family participate in the creation of hats in various styles. Mr Chi's wife, Doña Manuelita Pool enjoys figuring out how to weave hats with different shapes and colours. The colours, by the way, are mostly achieved using ancient Mayan techniques that extract pigments from various plants. The Chi Pool family makes hats of various styles: bronco (cowboy style), panama, cuban style and several others.

 

 

Be sure to visit Bécal when you visit Campeche City (or Merida City in the state of Yucatan). Bécal is about one hour's drive from Campeche City or about a 40 minute drive from Merida. One of Campeche's local travel services companies can arrange for a visit.  Once in town you may ask your driver to ask for directions to Don Holoch and Doña Manuelita's house and perhaps they will invite you in to see their cave and their home, so hospitable are they.

 

 

Parque de los Sombreros

Park of the Hats in Bécal, Campeche

 

 

 

Entrance to the cave and strands of dried treated jippi plant

 

 

 

 

 

A jippi plant

 

 

 

 

 

Artisan working the jippi in the cave where the humidity keeps the strands malleable

 

 

 

 

 

 

Doña Manuelita Pool putting a finishing touch on a Panama hat.

 

 

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